AttilaTheMom wrote:Anyone know what the safe maximum storage temperature for these are? I'd like to get one for my car but as I live in the desert it gets quite frickin hot inside my car and I wouldn't want the can to explode.

Taken from the Nitrostrike FAQ:
Q: Will the NitroStrike™ FireFighting Mini-Foamer operate at any temperature?

A: The FireFighting Mini-Foamer can be safely stored at any temperature. However, its optimal operating temperature range is between 35ºF and 120ºF. If frozen, the contents will not be harmed and the unit will perform effectively after thawing.

------
So you can keep this baby on the sun apparently. Just don't try to put out the sun with it. Wont work.

It was dry chem, but I think he was purposely mis-using it for exaggerated effect. The usual recommendation is to start from several feet away to give the dry chem enough room to disperse and smother the fire. He was using it from only a couple of feet away, which due to the high pressure output, can cause more of the fuel to atomize and cause the flare up.

KuoH

rmeden wrote:I don't think it was dry chemical. I think they were putting water on a grease fire (Class B). Which is of course a big no-no.

This produce states that it uses "FireAde 2000" which documents the following:

In the fire classes A, B and F, FireAde 2000 can also be used in sections of fire class D (alkaline earth metals) and does not have the disadvantages of conventional foam extinguishing agents, which also include poisonous fluorine compounds.

FireAde 2000 Hydrocarbon separation technology (PDF)

Keep in mind when buying this kind of extinguisher that it likely does not have an indication of whether it is properly charged or not (if the compression gas has leaked out), so if you keep this in your kitchen instead of a regular fire extinguisher (with such an indication of readiness), then keep a couple with different expiration dates (different manufacturing runs) just to be safe.

rahil123 wrote:Where? And how much?

PM sent.

kuoh wrote:It was dry chem, but I think he was purposely mis-using it for exaggerated effect. The usual recommendation is to start from several feet away to give the dry chem enough room to disperse and smother the fire. He was using it from only a couple of feet away, which due to the high pressure output, can cause more of the fuel to atomize and cause the flare up.

KuoH

Yes, he was too close.

But a lot of apartment kitchens are not any bigger than the distance that guy was away from the stove, and who is measuring when panicking over a fire?

But, indeed, everyone should train with a variety of fire extinguishers to avoid just those kinds of screwups.

Think of it this way. If you went in for 3, that's less than $12 per year wasted even if you didn't have a fire. Personally, I'm willing to take that bet and hope I never have to use it on anything of mine. Now if I can actually help out a neighbor or fellow motorist in the next 3 years, well that's just icing on the burning stove top.

KuoH

rom wrote:I know I don't want to be using these on any fire but the 2014 expiration makes me anxious in using both before it expires!

scottman54 wrote:Can these put out and contain nuclear core meltdowns in case of earthquake? If not, I have no use for them.

Lol ahha well.. I think it can, you should go try it out.

rom wrote:I know I don't want to be using these on any fire but the 2014 expiration makes me anxious in using both before it expires!

You should hope you never have to use it. 15 bucks for insurance of 2 spots for 3 years is not a bad deal.

If you want a true fire extinguisher, get a Dual Halon fire extinguisher. Works for electronics, and anything else you throw at it. Kills the fire by blocking the O2 mixture in the fire triangle (ignition (heat), fuel, oxygen) without killing you (conventional red fire extinguishers snuff out the air with CO2, but makes it a breathing hazard if you are too close).

Dual Halons have shelf lives of 10~11 years and are FAA approved.


Downside: They are made with CFCs and are no longer commercially available. (They were $10 about 15 years ago but the same size extinguisher is now $130)

kuoh wrote:It was dry chem, but I think he was purposely mis-using it for exaggerated effect. The usual recommendation is to start from several feet away to give the dry chem enough room to disperse and smother the fire. He was using it from only a couple of feet away, which due to the high pressure output, can cause more of the fuel to atomize and cause the flare up.

Exaggerated perhaps, but that's exactly what a lot of people who have never tried to put out a real fire like that before might do, especially when they're in a panic. Giving them something like this would actually be much safer in such cases. If this doesn't work, they probably need to get out and call in the pros, fast.

Hm, actually thinking about how various family members would likely react I think I've now convinced myself to buy a couple of these (even though we already have two large extinguishers on hand).

Unfortunately, that is not a very likely reality, and many small kitchen fires probably do get out of control for just this reason. From the demo video, it looks like this one uses less pressure and the foaming action keeps the active chemicals closer to the fire instead of being blown away like the dry chem, although there seemed to be some initial flare up with this as well.

KuoH

davidfawcett wrote:
But, indeed, everyone should train with a variety of fire extinguishers to avoid just those kinds of screwups.

kmartind wrote:If said electronics or something near them are on fire I think whether it will damage the electronics or not is pretty much irrelevant.
Now whether it could possibly result in an electrical hazzard after removing the immediate danger of the fire is still somewhat in question. A dry chemical might be best in that case, but I did find some statements by an employee from last year indicating:

Actually, you can save the computer if the fire started in the power supply and you catch it early enough. This is especially true of the hard drive. Many computer room fires also start somewhere along the electrical cord because if a short, i.e. frayed wires or an exposed plug that touches metal. In that case, the computer is safe if the fire is caught early.

Foam like this is what the fire department uses to take care of hornets.

[quote postid="4686008" user="CowboyDann"]Watched both the videos. First one: Are you sure that dry chemical extinguisher wasn't gasoline?

While I wouldn’t recommend a dry chemical extinguisher, I do believe he may have been to close. That kind of pressure disperses the flaming oil everywhere (making it easier to burn), as illustrated... Even the low pressure mini-foamer, flames the oil up initially... but banking it off the back of the pan covers it quickly...

Just my observation...

All in all... it does look like a great extinguisher though...

(Having the lid close by during frying wouldn’t hurt either...)

Is any unused portion of the can (after you use it once) usable after a while? In other words, if I use half a can one day, can I use the other half a year later, or will it have gone bad?

BIGCTY wrote:I'd be willing to bet purchasing one of EVERYTHING during the next woot-off that one would giveth not thy darn if it would ruin your precious electronics if a fire ACTUALLY broke out.

"Now now dear, let's not spray the refurb'd HP with this foamy stuff. We must be prudent and choose something with an alphabet rating, or something known to be safe for electronics. Run along now, I'll watch the fire while you find a better alternative."

I hope some of the cats on here are in for 3 (like I'll be), because surely this product is safe for spraying on their overly analytical self combusting heads.

Overly analytical? Hardly. Your point is silly because we're asking about the extinguisher's rating BEFORE any such fire. It's called being prepared. It's precisely why we're having this discussion NOW, not during a fire. That way, we can place an extinguisher where it's most appropriate. Surely you understand that...?

sdc100 wrote:Actually, you can save the computer if the fire started in the power supply and you catch it early enough. This is especially true of the hard drive. Many computer room fires also start somewhere along the electrical cord because if a short, i.e. frayed wires or an exposed plug that touches metal. In that case, the computer is safe if the fire is caught early.

There's not a great deal of flammable stuff in most servers/PCs though (the plastic being most of it), so it would most likely fizzle out on it's own unless it's near something external that's flamable. I say this as someone who just this summer powered on a rack with a 3-phase 225 Amp service that had a miswired (at the factory) UPS in it. Loud as heck and some smoke, but no sustained fire at all. There wasn't really anything to burn, wiring is plenum rated, etc.

Unless you can use halon or similar I doubt you'll find much of anything that isn't likey to cause just as much collateral damage as these, and likely make a much bigger mess, but I'd be a little worried about using it around high voltage unless it's shown to be safe. These are probably too small to be relied on for a server room of any significant size that doesn't already have fire supression infrastructure though.

sdc100 wrote:Overly analytical? Hardly. Your point is silly because we're asking about the extinguisher's rating BEFORE any such fire. It's called being prepared. It's precisely why we're having this discussion NOW, not during a fire. That way, we can place the an extinguisher where it's most appropriate. Surely you understand that...?

Understood kind sir/madam. My only point is if/when the time came to use it, I doubt saving electronics would be tops on the priority list. Surely you understand that...? It's Woot man/woman, don't take it personal.

"Silly" points excite me, and I am humbled by your number of quality posts. You rule.

davidfawcett wrote:

Spray away on your flaming space heater with this. At least everything else in the room might not be trashed.

No. This is NOT a Class C rated fire extinguisher... it should not be used on energized electrical equipment.

If the space heater is unplugged or otherwise de-energized, then it is not a class c fire and you may fight it with these.

There seems to be some confusion on here about what constitutes a "class c" fire. It is all about the potential for shock. It has nothing to do with protecting the equipment that is on fire. If your computer (or other piece of consumer electronics) is on fire, your only concern should be extinguishing (or escaping) the fire safely.

If you run, say, a data center, then your situation is different... but in that case you should not be buying fire extinguishers on Woot.

I would venture to guess that the chemicals remain viable, unless there is a leak somewhere. However without the safety tab, there is a higher risk of accidental release if the can is not stored carefully, ie. rolling around in the trunk of the car.

KuoH

endangereddelicacies wrote:...if I use half a can one day, can I use the other half a year later, or will it have gone bad?

endangereddelicacies wrote:Is any unused portion of the can (after you use it once) usable after a while? In other words, if I use half a can one day, can I use the other half a year later, or will it have gone bad?

The FAQ seems to say no it wouldn't necessarilly go bad, but since there's no gauge on it you're better off replacing it so you know you've got a full one ready to go:


Is the NitroStrike™ FireFighting Mini-Foamer reusable?

The NitroStrike™ FireFighting Mini-Foamer should not be kept for re-use once the safety tab has been removed. Because there is no gauge on the product, you cannot be certain how much is left in the container and you do. not.want.to.take.the.chance of running out of its safe, effective, nitrogen-filled fire fighting foam when you need it most. Replace as soon as possible with a fresh can and recycle the used can – all of its parts are 100% recyclable.

kmartind wrote:The FAQ seems to say no it wouldn't necessarilly go bad, but since there's no gauge on it you're better off replacing it so you know you've got a full one ready to go

Good 'nuff. In for 3.

Wouldn'tcha know, I just bought a 5# dry chem ext for the car yesterday. Now I've got to retrieve the box from the recycling so I can return it. This looks like an "almost" clean agent extinguisher that doesn't leave a huge corrosive mess if used. But true clean agent (halotron) extinguishers are over $100 for a tiny 2 lb unit. The video was impressive.

CowboyDann wrote:Also, has woot ever sold out all their deals in one day? I might be crazy, but today's deals seem a little *too* good. I have a feeling everything will sell out today.

Yep, this happens quite a bit. It last happened a few days ago with some locking good storage containers. The Woot sold out by 2pm ET. According to the counter, they sold 25,000 sets! Even yesterday's HP laptop was bouncing by 1am ET. I don't think these will sell out though. Sadly, it's not a huge concern for many people and it certainly offers no instant gratification. Heck, the hope is never to use it. You can't even try it out.

For those considering this for the car (as I was):

"The product freezes at 32F"

(Taken from FireAde 2000 website FAQ)

BIGCTY wrote:Understood kind sir/madam. My only point is if/when the time came to use it, I doubt saving electronics would be tops on the priority list. Surely you understand that...? It's Woot man/woman, don't take it personal.

"Silly" points excite me, and I am humbled by your number of quality posts. You rule.

Point well-taken. Thanks for the good-natured reply.

Expires Jan or Dec 2012?

Sorry, meant 2014.

sdc100 wrote:Yep, this happens quite a bit. It last happened a few days ago with some locking good storage containers. The Woot sold out by 2pm ET. According to the counter, they sold 25,000 sets! Even yesterday's HP laptop was bouncing by 1am ET. I don't think these will sell out though. Sadly, it's not a huge concern for many people and it certainly offers no instant gratification. Heck, the hope is never to use it. You can't even try it out.

I meant woot/kids/wine/sellout/home/ I've seen plenty of individual woots sell out before :3

modelagus wrote:Water does not conduct electricity, the minerals in the water conduct electricity. If you use distilled water it will not conduct electricity.

Pure water does conduct electricity, albeit very weakly. Dissolved ionic substances such as salt and other impurities increase conductivity significantly

While everyone else is splitting hairs, I bought four, because four is better than zero.

Just read Expires 9/23/14. I don' often read those.

noldula wrote:I need a C class fire extinguisher for fires caused by live electrical equipments but I can't see its class.

Kidde 466180 Pro 5 CD Fire Extinguisher looks to be a good choice.

It has water as an ingredient, not for electrical fires.

niks wrote:For those considering this for the car (as I was):

"The product freezes at 32F"

(Taken from FireAde 2000 website FAQ)

While that is certainly a concern during use, I'm just as concerned about high temperatures for storage. This is pressurized and high temperatures (generally > 120F) can cause an explosion or premature depressurization. It's an inevitable consequence of the ideal gas laws: heat increases pressure in confined gases. This is why I'm skeptical of the website's claim that it can be stored at any temperature. 120F and above is certainly reachable in a car trunk.

There is, of course, always the possibility that the can is not pressurized. For example, the gas may not be produced until various substances are mixed by pressing the sprayer. This is the case with some self-inflating non-helium balloons. Inside the balloon is baking soda and a bag of vinegar. By popping the bag, CO2 is produced, inflating the balloon.

modelagus wrote:Water does not conduct electricity, the minerals in the water conduct electricity. If you use distilled water it will not conduct electricity.

Really? I'm not saying you're wrong, but I have a wager. We'll set you in a bathtub filled with distilled water, and I'll drop in a toaster to seal the deal. Yes? No?

Which does remind me of one of my favorite scenes from Groundhog Day.

endangereddelicacies wrote:Is any unused portion of the can (after you use it once) usable after a while? In other words, if I use half a can one day, can I use the other half a year later, or will it have gone bad?

Well, it should put out half a fire, anyway, but Dude! Count your blessings that you had it handy for the first fire, then reload. The cost is worth the peace of mind for the next time Junior decides to set his Hot Wheels on fire with gasoline.

Looks like they're already a year old. I guess someone is dumping stock.

CowboyDann wrote:Looking at the map I can't help but wonder; is the east coast all asleep? Or is it just that they don't care about fire safety.

Well, there is that circadian rhythm thang for some of us. Then there are some of us who are monitoring the potential for a tsunami, making this unnecessary. I did finally decide to go in for a bunch of what seems to be a decent meanwhile gap filler until/unless I do more research, also as a kind of affirmation that my vision thang about water up to my second-story window will not be fulfilled, but my purchase hasn't made a dent in the Woot! map color for my state. Shoutout from Boston!

This product contains 3% AFFF (Aqueous Film Forming Foam, A triple F) the same stuff used to put out fuel fires at airports and aboard US Navy ships. It works;, but as the as the name states it is aqueous, so contains water. After being in the navy and we had to use AFFF on a fire; I'm in for three. Try this site for more info on AFFF fire extinguishers. If I remember correctly it is derived from beets; I'm told it doesn't taste to bad.

Just so you all know. I've owned one of these and seeing this sale made me race here to inform you guys of the proper uses for this product.

I HAVE USED THESE AND THEY ARE TO BE USED ONLY FOR SMALL HOUSE FIRES SUCH AS THE KITCHEN OR A SMALL CAMPFIRE. DO NOT RELY ON THIS FOR ANYTHING MORE THAN THAT.

If you have a car fire, DO NOT USE THIS as it is not rated on the A,B,C rating system and can spread electrical charge to other components of the car.

For a good extinguisher that can handle medium fires safely with a B and C rating, I suggest this: http://www.thesupplytree.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KID21006287&ga1=bg1

It has an extremely long shelf life, and I've used it in my towing industry to stop medium car fires.

Although this woot product is GREAT, and I highly recommend it for house hold usage, it should be used for small house fires, nothing more.

*NOTE: Before you read, please note that I am only posting this in an effort to inform the public based my past experiences with dealing roadside fires in my towing job. I do not discourage the buying of this product at all. I only wish to make sure people are aware of its uses and do not rely on it too much*