shameed


quality posts: 0 Private Messages shameed


Can anyone who owns this camera tell me if there is any way to get rid of all the info presented to you while taking the picture on the LCD display, including the [ ] stupid square brackets in the middle of the screen. I hate these. I have a Minolta z5 and it has an i (info) button that pressed repeatedly will end up in decreasing/changing the information on the screen to nothing at all and I like that. But I don't see that very common in digital cameras. I see that this one has an i (info/help) button, but I was wondering if this one also gets rid of the [ ] square brackets in the middle of the screen. I don't know why the manufacturers put it there. The screen is small enough to figure out the middle of the screen where it normally focuses (unless you are using some special feature) without having to block your view with some stupid square bracket.

Any info will be helpful.

Thanks.

sdc100


quality posts: 410 Private Messages sdc100
JoxerMighty wrote:What good is the ISO settings all the way up to 3200?
Are they really usable in low light that would be the reason for that?
On other cameras the picture gets too grainy and noisy even at ISO400.



According to some reviews, this camera is noisy even at ISO 64!!!

Here's an example:
http://www.trustedreviews.com/digital-cameras/review/2007/10/09/Kodak-EasyShare-Z1275/p5

dekonstruct


quality posts: 3 Private Messages dekonstruct

I am in for one.

I had a kodak easyshare from about 9 years ago, it was a tank. The only thing that killed it was accidentally dropping it in a lake. I suspect that would kill any digital camera.

kerrycindy


quality posts: 3 Private Messages kerrycindy

after getting tired of the rechargable batteries giving up on me at the wrong time, i switched to energizer lithium batteries and keep spares when i take my three kodaks on an outing. i know, THREE? one is mine, one is the wife's and one belongs to my ten year old son. the oldest , now my son's, DX4330 3mp takes the best pictures if you don't want to print bigger than a 5x7, and it is 10 years old, well, maybe 7. the other 2 are a C330 4mp and a C513 5mp. I use to use the CRV3 lithiums but the energizer AA lithiums are so much cheaper and work as long yes, I would like to have a slr with 5000x optical zoom and blah and blah and blah, but who are we kidding. i am not a pro and i doubt most of you are. so be happy, get this camera and share the pics with your family using email. GOOD DAY!

thormj


quality posts: 3 Private Messages thormj

The HD video is awesome, when you're outside.
Inside, otoh, is blurry -- there just isn't enough light gathering ability to get HD video inside without a lot of light. I'll post back once I get some band videos uploaded. They come out in MJPEG MOV format, so the Windows Movie Maker can't deal with them until you run it through a MOV->WMV (or AVI) converter.

You can zoom during video recording, but it will re-focus after the zoom is complete, and you will hear the motors in the video. But you can do it. If you're shooting a video with a constant focus (stage, fireworks, etc), it's best to keep it on "Focus once at the start," otherwise it will tend to drift the picture into/out of focus every 5 seconds. OTOH, during a soccer match, it had no problem tracking people all over the field; it doesn't like maintaining a focus point.

At dusk, you'll lose autofocus without warning (you need to manually go to single-focus mode) -- it will just keep focusing min->max->min again.

Be aware that it limits you to 30 minute clips; if you don't pick the end point, it will automatically stop at 30 minutes and pause for ~30 seconds. If you stop it, you can restart the recording in ~10 seconds (silly codec licensing).

Also -- Beware the AF light. I was shooting fireworks from inside the Batman Tower (Nashville), and I wasn't paying attention, so I got the orange AF light in a lot of the videos.

There is no image stabilization in video mode (or any of the other modes, except "image stabilization" -- fake digital stuff), so a tripod or a 2 hand-weighted bag is necessary to reduce nasea. I got a "flash adapter" (handle that will fire a slave flash) on clearance and that helps a lot. It also holds 4 AA rechargeables, so I always have spares (eneloop or Kodak "pre-charged" FTW).

I also am not sure the color is up to snuff. With my Panasonic Lumix LZ5, I shot normal pictures, and post-corrected them with a grey card (http://www.pictureflow.com), with slight differences in color. The Kodak has a lot of difference in color and tends to overexpose the grey card (doh!); to get quality prints, you have to color-correct even pictures taken outside in the daytime. The shots are OK, but once you use a grey card, it's amazing what the subtle difference in color can do for a picture.

The shutter lag is noticeable, and the "rapid shooting" doesn't work "right" -- I could usually get an action sequence OK with the lumix, but I can't get one with the Kodak-- and the effect is magnified if you're using slow SD cards (no Microcenter cards in this camera... after changing to a Kingson 6 MP SDHC card, I've had much less problems).

There is a world of difference in the zoomability and low-light ability between the 6x Panasonic Lumix and this camera. I wasn't expecting such a difference between 6x and 5x, but it is noticeable. Unless you're using starry night mode, the Kodak has a lot of high-iso noise. I haven't experimented much with nightscapes or astronomy yet. The "delay 2 seconds before shutter" is great for using gorilla-pods at high zoom (so the shaking goes away before the snap).

I haven't tried the on-board photo processing. The only thing I know is that it doesn't do video (I guess I need Premiere elements after all...).

All in all, I like it. I really like it for 720P video. The camera is *ok* (from a person who is trying to save for a DSLR). The Auto-Stitch Panoramas is *neat*, but you can do better if you shoot 12MP (panos are limited to 3 4 MP sections), and use AutoStitch on the resulting images (you have to line it up manually if not in pano mode). The Pano mode doesn't even maintain constant white-balance/exposure between shots (if you're shooting a lit bridge that trails off in the distance, don't use the pano mode on the camera -- you'll see the banding between the pictures once you start adjusting it in Picasa.).

I'd buy one again (I bought at the $120 mark non-respiffied), but mine hasn't died yet ;)

Tips:
1. Less video interaction is more. Correct defects (like camera tilt) in post-processing. Don't zoom in/out constantly, as the noise/defocusing is very noticeable.
2. Use the minimum zoom you can get away with -- it improves light gathering ability and stability of the shot.
3. Always keep a spare SD/SDHC card around. This camera is *picky* about them.
4. NiMH 2200+ / Lithium AA / Oxyride AA's.
Alkaline is good for ~20 pics (!!).
NiMH 2500 is good for ~2.5 hrs video.
Lithium is good for ~4 hrs. (I keep a spare lithium in the flash holder "just in case" the NiMH's have gone down)
5. Use a name brand, fast SDHC card.
6. Tripods / Gorillapods are your friend, esp with this camera. Even at 1x zoom.
7. If indoors, use the flash often, unless you can use a grey card later. This camera has no idea what to do with fluorescent lights.
8. Panos are cool, but what do you do with them later? (I got on a pano kick, in San Francisco, but still don't know what to do with them).
9. If you use a grey card, make sure it has a splotch of white on it (white out or better yet, the whibal sticker) -- otherwise this camera *will* over-expose it and you won't be able to get the color to work right.

kerrycindy


quality posts: 3 Private Messages kerrycindy

OH, BYE THE WAY, BIG HINT: when you are going to take a pic and cannot see what you are taking a pic of in the lcd due to bright sunshine, hold the shutter button half way down and it improves by brightening the lcd a bit so you can see it better, try it. you might like it.

thormj


quality posts: 3 Private Messages thormj
shameed wrote:Can anyone who owns this camera tell me if there is any way to get rid of all the info presented to you while taking the picture on the LCD display, including the [ ] stupid square brackets in the middle of the screen. I hate these. I have a Minolta z5 and it has an i (info) button that pressed repeatedly will end up in decreasing/changing the information on the screen to nothing at all and I like that. But I don't see that very common in digital cameras. I see that this one has an i (info/help) button, but I was wondering if this one also gets rid of the [ ] square brackets in the middle of the screen. I don't know why the manufacturers put it there. The screen is small enough to figure out the middle of the screen where it normally focuses (unless you are using some special feature) without having to block your view with some stupid square bracket.



The i button will get rid of the surrounding info (ISO, etc), but not the [ ]'s. In manual mode, you can get/turn off the histogram, but there is no histogram in "full auto".

The []'s go away in video mode, FWIW...

BTW, the LCD is crappy enough that you can't really tell if something is in focus or not. I wish I had my SLR pentaprism in the middle of my viewfinder.

bigmyke32


quality posts: 0 Private Messages bigmyke32

I was considering it, but the lack of viewfinder kinda puts a damper on it. My current camera is an Olympus FE-230, that does not have a viewfinder either. My Olympus is a great camera and I love it but when I go to be beach or I'm on the lake on a bright afternoon, it is kinda hard to know exactly how my picture will turn out. Hopefully one that suits my needs will be wooting sometime soon!

wjossey


quality posts: 0 Private Messages wjossey

Popped my woot pimple today

[EDIT: *giggles*, looks like they censor the word cherry]

eggrob


quality posts: 5 Private Messages eggrob
philmo14741 wrote:... If you have a god lens you can get great pictures out of a 1 MP camera. S



Let me know if you can buy a God lens separately. I'd think one of those would be pretty sharp.

vegasvento


quality posts: 0 Private Messages vegasvento

Just wooted this one, hoping that it doesent have any trouble cause its a respiffer. Last woot was the Invicta Speedway II Watch...and still lovin that

vengog


quality posts: 0 Private Messages vengog

Thanks for the info.
Good post.
Ven

Bbqwoo


quality posts: 0 Private Messages Bbqwoo

Great Camera. I bought one on ecost.com last month for 90.00.

It takes fantastically sharp pics. Video is better than my older digital camcorder. Great lens.
Absolutely great deal. I also bought a 4 gb sdhc card for 12.00 at ecost.com

JMerriken


quality posts: 0 Private Messages JMerriken

all the people complaining about the view finder. Unless you are using an SLR, that view through the view finder is not that acutal picture that the camera takes. That is why most manufacturers are doing away with the view finder. Check it for yourself. Put the point and shoot on a tripod and look through the view finder take a picture of something static, then look through the LCD and take the picture. Chances are they will be slightly off. But hey if it isn't for art class who cares that the hand was cut off

What are you doing

kerrycindy


quality posts: 3 Private Messages kerrycindy

can a God lens be installed in place of the original lens on kodaks? hmmmmm?

cosmicac


quality posts: 3 Private Messages cosmicac

I bought this camera for $99 last time on woot. The only thing about it is it is not a BAKA camera: it really doesn't consistently take good full auto photos. You need to know something about photography, but if you search the net you can find out all you need to know in about a hour and you can practice with your new camera. I use the P/M setting (manual) the most and it takes great pictures. The batteries are an issue, but I like using AA on the road, because you can find them everywhere and you don't need to carry a dedicated charger and a power converter in a foreign country. I'm running AA eneloops from Costco and they're good for a 5 day trip. I usually carry spares, but I've never needed to use them: I take about 50 to 75 shots a trip. I even like it better than my FinePix F45. Woot it you won't be disappointed.

shameed


quality posts: 0 Private Messages shameed
thormj wrote:The i button will get rid of the surrounding info (ISO, etc), but not the [ ]'s. In manual mode, you can get/turn off the histogram, but there is no histogram in "full auto".

The []'s go away in video mode, FWIW...

BTW, the LCD is crappy enough that you can't really tell if something is in focus or not. I wish I had my SLR pentaprism in the middle of my viewfinder.



Hi thormj:

Thanks for the info. One more question: What is the color of the brackets? White color tends to distract me more than the other darker colors?

Its good to know that at least in the video mode the [ ]'s go away. Does it mean the screen can be totally cleared of all the cr@p using the i button in the video mode?

Thanks again.




cosmicac


quality posts: 3 Private Messages cosmicac
shameed wrote:Hi thormj:

Thanks for the info. One more question: What is the color of the brackets? White color tends to distract me more than the other darker colors?

Its good to know that at least in the video mode the [ ]'s go away. Does it mean the screen can be totally cleared of all the cr@p using the i button in the video mode?

Thanks again.



White

sdc100


quality posts: 410 Private Messages sdc100
bigmyke32 wrote:. My Olympus is a great camera and I love it but when I go to be beach or I'm on the lake on a bright afternoon, it is kinda hard to know exactly how my picture will turn out. Hopefully one that suits my needs will be wooting sometime soon!



I just bought this Kodak camera and I'm considering the below shade to block the sun. Looks like the perfect solution for $10. Seems like a great solution because it's removable. That way, it won't add thickness when I don't need it, i.e. at night. Plus, it protects the LCD as well.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=370068599711

Versatile87


quality posts: 0 Private Messages Versatile87

About how long of a video can you record/how many pictures can you keep on an 8gb sdhc card like this one? (at maximum resolution for both)

http://www.amazon.com/Transcend-8GB-SDHC-CARD-Class/dp/B000P9ZBFA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1216657146&sr=1-1

Thanks in advance

Steve-Zodiac


quality posts: 3 Private Messages Steve-Zodiac

I got one of these last go around and after solving 'the battery' problem I love it.

If you get one of these, go out and buy a set of the Duracell 2650 rechargables. The battery that came with the Woot didn't even have the orbs to run it (for me).

It's not as good as the Vivitar 8600 (another woot offer) for super macro shots but the built in panorama stitching is awesome.

The HD video it shoots is pretty nice, too.

It was a good deal (for me) at $99 - and a temptation to pick up another one for $20 less.

-has been WOOTing before you were out of diapers.

jonobleswoot


quality posts: 2 Private Messages jonobleswoot

I purchased the 8 mp camera when it was on here. Takes horrible, grainy pictures. Yes, the image stabilation is great, I can take pics of my son running or on the swing. However, this doesn't make up for the picture quality. Baby carp.

shameed


quality posts: 0 Private Messages shameed
cosmicac wrote:White



Thanks.

txcruiser


quality posts: 3 Private Messages txcruiser

I own two Re-hashed Kodak Cameras and they are workhorses for me, Especially now with a new baby. So I'm in for one of these also, never know when you need to print out a Poster.

Thanks WOOT,

jimherrick


quality posts: 0 Private Messages jimherrick
ViperGuy wrote:Why is that?
Every digital camera I have owned has one but I NEVER used it, that's why they have those nice LCD view finders.



You can take *many* more pictures on a single battery charge when not using the LCD viewfinder for every for every picture. It seems like it is the biggest drain to the battery.

spammyu


quality posts: 0 Private Messages spammyu

I bought a z885 3 months ago. Never worked right. Clock battery dead, usb port always dropping out, and system would freeze like all kodaks seem to do. - ok, and block of dead pixels noticable in video. 1st unit had block of 5 all blue, 2nd unit has block of 3 or 4, all pink. Very annoying in video! Finally, dropped about 4 feet from hand, into soft dirt of flower bed. Now, dead as door nail. The z885 did employ some dig antishake on video - poorly implemented, but better than nothing. Thinking maybe z1275 will also do so on 640x480, but possibly not on the hd video because it's too cpu intensive on such a large datastream. So why buy this, over a sony W series (which are really very good), or a canon (a570 is, etc) which are great, or a Panasonic L7xx or similar (great too) ? For the hd video wizz bang, and because woot price is crazy good.

something smells.... wooty.

DixieGo


quality posts: 0 Private Messages DixieGo

I purchased the 8 mp kodak that was on here or the sellout and I have been fairly impressed with the quality and ease of use. From what I can tell about the resolution, it looks great but only if you have a camera stand. There is no stabilization for video so everything looks shaky if you hold it while taking the video. Other than that, I think this is a superb deal and might jump on it if I can justify it.

writerstix


quality posts: 0 Private Messages writerstix

North Dakota is not much of a fan.

Writerstix

rrdaines


quality posts: 0 Private Messages rrdaines

When you say, "lag" is this between shots or from the time you press down the button to when the picture is actually taken?

rrdaines


quality posts: 0 Private Messages rrdaines
thormj wrote:The HD video is awesome, when you're outside.
Inside, otoh, is blurry -- there just isn't enough light gathering ability to get HD video inside without a lot of light. I'll post back once I get some band videos uploaded. They come out in MJPEG MOV format, so the Windows Movie Maker can't deal with them until you run it through a MOV->WMV (or AVI) converter.

You can zoom during video recording, but it will re-focus after the zoom is complete, and you will hear the motors in the video. But you can do it. If you're shooting a video with a constant focus (stage, fireworks, etc), it's best to keep it on "Focus once at the start," otherwise it will tend to drift the picture into/out of focus every 5 seconds. OTOH, during a soccer match, it had no problem tracking people all over the field; it doesn't like maintaining a focus point.

At dusk, you'll lose autofocus without warning (you need to manually go to single-focus mode) -- it will just keep focusing min->max->min again.

Be aware that it limits you to 30 minute clips; if you don't pick the end point, it will automatically stop at 30 minutes and pause for ~30 seconds. If you stop it, you can restart the recording in ~10 seconds (silly codec licensing).

Also -- Beware the AF light. I was shooting fireworks from inside the Batman Tower (Nashville), and I wasn't paying attention, so I got the orange AF light in a lot of the videos.

There is no image stabilization in video mode (or any of the other modes, except "image stabilization" -- fake digital stuff), so a tripod or a 2 hand-weighted bag is necessary to reduce nasea. I got a "flash adapter" (handle that will fire a slave flash) on clearance and that helps a lot. It also holds 4 AA rechargeables, so I always have spares (eneloop or Kodak "pre-charged" FTW).

I also am not sure the color is up to snuff. With my Panasonic Lumix LZ5, I shot normal pictures, and post-corrected them with a grey card (http://www.pictureflow.com), with slight differences in color. The Kodak has a lot of difference in color and tends to overexpose the grey card (doh!); to get quality prints, you have to color-correct even pictures taken outside in the daytime. The shots are OK, but once you use a grey card, it's amazing what the subtle difference in color can do for a picture.

The shutter lag is noticeable, and the "rapid shooting" doesn't work "right" -- I could usually get an action sequence OK with the lumix, but I can't get one with the Kodak-- and the effect is magnified if you're using slow SD cards (no Microcenter cards in this camera... after changing to a Kingson 6 MP SDHC card, I've had much less problems).

There is a world of difference in the zoomability and low-light ability between the 6x Panasonic Lumix and this camera. I wasn't expecting such a difference between 6x and 5x, but it is noticeable. Unless you're using starry night mode, the Kodak has a lot of high-iso noise. I haven't experimented much with nightscapes or astronomy yet. The "delay 2 seconds before shutter" is great for using gorilla-pods at high zoom (so the shaking goes away before the snap).

I haven't tried the on-board photo processing. The only thing I know is that it doesn't do video (I guess I need Premiere elements after all...).

All in all, I like it. I really like it for 720P video. The camera is *ok* (from a person who is trying to save for a DSLR). The Auto-Stitch Panoramas is *neat*, but you can do better if you shoot 12MP (panos are limited to 3 4 MP sections), and use AutoStitch on the resulting images (you have to line it up manually if not in pano mode). The Pano mode doesn't even maintain constant white-balance/exposure between shots (if you're shooting a lit bridge that trails off in the distance, don't use the pano mode on the camera -- you'll see the banding between the pictures once you start adjusting it in Picasa.).

I'd buy one again (I bought at the $120 mark non-respiffied), but mine hasn't died yet ;)

Tips:
1. Less video interaction is more. Correct defects (like camera tilt) in post-processing. Don't zoom in/out constantly, as the noise/defocusing is very noticeable.
2. Use the minimum zoom you can get away with -- it improves light gathering ability and stability of the shot.
3. Always keep a spare SD/SDHC card around. This camera is *picky* about them.
4. NiMH 2200+ / Lithium AA / Oxyride AA's.
Alkaline is good for ~20 pics (!!).
NiMH 2500 is good for ~2.5 hrs video.
Lithium is good for ~4 hrs. (I keep a spare lithium in the flash holder "just in case" the NiMH's have gone down)
5. Use a name brand, fast SDHC card.
6. Tripods / Gorillapods are your friend, esp with this camera. Even at 1x zoom.
7. If indoors, use the flash often, unless you can use a grey card later. This camera has no idea what to do with fluorescent lights.
8. Panos are cool, but what do you do with them later? (I got on a pano kick, in San Francisco, but still don't know what to do with them).
9. If you use a grey card, make sure it has a splotch of white on it (white out or better yet, the whibal sticker) -- otherwise this camera *will* over-expose it and you won't be able to get the color to work right.



Is the lag between shots or the time between pressing the button and when the shutter activates (picture taken)

pseudohippy


quality posts: 0 Private Messages pseudohippy

When you buy this camera refurbished, does it look used? Do they put a new case on it or will there be minor scratches and wear? Please someone let me know, Ive never bought respiffied and want to know what to expect before I buy this.

Thanks

kw1bbfan


quality posts: 0 Private Messages kw1bbfan

For Lens Specifications go to:
www.kodak.com/eknec/PageQuerier.jhtml?pq-locale=en_US&pq-path=11208

txcruiser


quality posts: 3 Private Messages txcruiser
pseudohippy wrote:When you buy this camera refurbished, does it look used? Do they put a new case on it or will there be minor scratches and wear? Please someone let me know, Ive never bought respiffied and want to know what to expect before I buy this.

Thanks



Mine have always looked brand new, They have a little unobtrusive little sticker that reads " Refurbished" and they come in a brown box.

pseudohippy


quality posts: 0 Private Messages pseudohippy
txcruiser wrote:Mine have always looked brand new, They have a little unobtrusive little sticker that reads " Refurbished" and they come in a brown box.



Thanks for the response. I appreciate it much.

rrdaines


quality posts: 0 Private Messages rrdaines
rrdaines wrote:Is the lag between shots or the time between pressing the button and when the shutter activates (picture taken)



It appears that people are saying that the focusing is difficult. Is this what you see?

HoozWoot


quality posts: 0 Private Messages HoozWoot

Hi sdc100....

Thanks for the site info. It's very detailed and just what I need. ...Hoozie

rrdaines


quality posts: 0 Private Messages rrdaines

Two questions:

1 What is lag time? Does the a faster card reduce the lag time?
2. Is the face recognition work well? Is it easy to focus with the LCD?

pezlin


quality posts: 0 Private Messages pezlin
rrdaines wrote:Does anyone know if this camera has actual face recognition (focus on the subject, not what is the closest object)? Also, I have had problem with taking a picture with a delay in the shutter by 4-6 sec (by that time people have already left the room). So, after I press the button, how long does it take to actually have it take the picture?




I've got a similar issue with my current Kodak C150... except my lag is experienced after the picture is taken. Perhaps its my memory card... but it seems like there's anywhere from a 5 to 15 second delay before the camera is able to take another pic. Does anyone know if this camera suffers from the same issue? (or perhaps my SD card just stinks)

Recent Woots:
7/7/08 - Navigon GPS
6/20/08 - Mighty Kite Mini-Kite
3/29/08 - SlingBox Classic
11/12/07 & 10/7/07 - 30gb Zune

tpsully1


quality posts: 4 Private Messages tpsully1

kind of a gyp ya don't get the rechargable batteries, how much xtra are they?

erhebergen


quality posts: 0 Private Messages erhebergen

In for 1, this will be a nice alternative to my SLR when I don't want to lug it or have it broken/taken.