RWoodward


quality posts: 57 Private Messages RWoodward
jspady wrote:I wish they would make these so they plugged into the lower socket. Several rooms in my house have the upper socket rigged to a light switch for plugging lamps into...I think this is a fairly common construction practice. Why not put the plug on the lower socket? Seems like an obvious design flaw...but all powerstips like this have the same flaw.



I hate when they do that. My wife, however loves the idea of being able to flip one switch and have every light in the room come on. I think it has something to do with the boogyman her grandmother warned her about.

rgagnon


quality posts: 3 Private Messages rgagnon
RWoodward wrote:I'm not an electrician, but...

As far as I know both sockets on a standard wall outlet are already one unit, connected to the same three wires, and generally as part of a series of outlets on a single circuit. If your concern is six devices worth of current running through a single socket as opposed to two sockets, I suspect there isn't a whit of difference. What matters is the total amperage being drawn through the circuit, whether that is connected to one socket or three separate "two hole" outlets all on the same circuit.



Not always. Outlets in kitchens are wired with two circuits each. The top is on one breaker, and the bottom is on another.

Also, some houses have wall outlets where 1/2 of the outlet is controlled by a wall switch, and the other 1/2 is always on.

This is why there are no prongs on this device to connect to the lower half of your outlet. If they did that, they would have to double the amount of electronics within it. One set for the top, and one set for the bottom.

rgagnon


quality posts: 3 Private Messages rgagnon
chancrescolex wrote:Yes, it does, but youre turning 2 outlets into 6 surge protected outlets. No biggie.



Technically, you're turning one outlet into 6.

endeszbet


quality posts: 1 Private Messages endeszbet

I once lost a $500 motherboard to a surge, due to completely unreliable power at my mother's old place. If you don't already have a surge protector, please get one. Also, extension cord with lots of places to plug in on the end =/= surge protector necessarily - check the packaging to make sure it's *actually* a surge protector. That's what I lost my motherboard to...

freetek


quality posts: 1 Private Messages freetek
KoraPlaya wrote:I bought one of these 2 weeks ago, power went out and my computer was saved from surge :D


Power outages do not always cause surges and most plugin surge protection consists of a 50 cent Varistor with a limited lifetime.
These afford only minor protection by shorting the AC line for a few microseconds when the voltage spikes above their breakdown voltage, typically around 200VAC for 120V service.
Each time the Varistor eats a spike, their breakdown voltage rises a bit so the degree of protection shrinks over time until they protect not at all.
The best protection is afforded by a 'whole house' surge protector which contains several components beyond the cheap Varistor.

Freedom is inversely proportional to the size of government.

trainfriend


quality posts: 0 Private Messages trainfriend
thebert99 wrote:Does anyone know if removing the screw entirely would cause any problems? Will it stay in the wall without it?



Yes, it will provide power but it won't be grounded. Grounding is important for proper protection.

giantdragon


quality posts: 0 Private Messages giantdragon

In for one.

freetek


quality posts: 1 Private Messages freetek
crazyswedishguy wrote:Out of curiosity, does anyone know if there is any chance this helps eliminate ground loop?

I just got a nice Line 6 POD Studio UX1 for my guitar, but when my laptop is connected to the power socket, I get a bad ground loop hum. Trying to find a way to solve that problem without dishing out $70.

Thanks!



It won't; you need an isolation transformer with galvanically separate primary and secondary.
The hum you are getting is more likely caused by poor shielding or a floating case on guitar or one of your effects.

Freedom is inversely proportional to the size of government.

dmand


quality posts: 1 Private Messages dmand

alright, alright, another post just to save myself here...

I said:

UL1449 must be a new one,
Does it compile with gcc too?



Thanks guys, I'm aware UL1449 is a standard for surge protectors. But at the bottom of the main woot page the technical specs say "Safety Standard: Compiles with UL 1449"

NightGhost


quality posts: 1903 Private Messages NightGhost
trainfriend wrote:Yes, it will provide power but it won't be grounded. Grounding is important for proper protection.



It will still be grounded through the third (round) prong, (unless someone cheated).

NightGhost


quality posts: 1903 Private Messages NightGhost
dmand wrote:alright, alright, another post just to save myself here...

I said:


Thanks guys, I'm aware UL1449 is a standard for surge protectors. But at the bottom of the main woot page the technical specs say "Safety Standard: Compiles with UL 1449"



Gotcha. But GCC can also stand for "ground current collector," so it's easy to see how we missed the point of your post.

cheeser1


quality posts: 2 Private Messages cheeser1
gnarf wrote:It fried the power brick and fried something inside which prevented my battery from charging when I got a new power brick. I thought it maybe fried the battery too so I bought a second battery only to discover that wasn't the problem. so I sent it in to get repaired, luckily it was on the last month of warranty coverage. laptops are like a UPS when the power goes out it will still run, but it is not like a UPS when it suffers a power surge, well maybe very small surges but a laptop will not protect you as any surge protector.



It's a bit like that, but not quite. A laptop provides surge protection because it's a buffer -- the person who said this is correct. Generally a laptop draws power from the brick, which puts that potential over the battery. The laptop components draw power from there. So if the brick fries, the components are somewhat protected - assuming your battery doesn't burst or something.

That being said, there is absolutely no reason to let your laptop sit there without surge protection, even if the battery would probably be a sufficient buffer to protect most of the components in the laptop. There is no reason to rely on this - and it may not be sufficient, depending on circumstances. I like these little buggers:

http://www.targus.com/us/product_details.aspx?sku=PAPWR001U

But a surge can cause damage to the laptop hardware between the brick and the battery -- the two are not directly connected. There is usually a second PCB (maybe not on a netbook, but I think probably still a separate PCB even with space-saving in mind). This PCB handles the DC from the brick, and gives it to the battery. It's handy to know this, because if your little power socket gets loose -- after six years, I replaced the one on my old Acer, which was was... okay I won't make the usual Oprah joke, but you get the idea. You can get the small PCB for this on ebay or such a place, replace it, and the laptop ought to work. This is, presumably, how your laptop was repaired.

freetek wrote:It won't; you need an isolation transformer with galvanically separate primary and secondary.
The hum you are getting is more likely caused by poor shielding or a floating case on guitar or one of your effects.



It may be the guitar, but it could easily be a potential between the PC and guitar/pedals (even if the pedals and PC are on the same outlet/power strip).

Computer sound cards often have bad grounding, and there could easily be a (difficult to fix) problem with the grounding somewhere in there. I would say this is probably the problem - a ground loop, but the issue is probably in the laptop sound card or adjacent components.

I would suggest plugging this into an amp (properly grounded, of course) and checking for hum - that way you can be more sure it's the laptop. Of course, if you're playing guitar through your PC, this may be due to a lack of amp.

Unfortunately, I don't think a new surge protector will fix this problem.

nicklcarey


quality posts: 9 Private Messages nicklcarey

Hmmm $10 surge protector for my $8 toaster.... i will take my chances.

shandy706


quality posts: 0 Private Messages shandy706
artnking wrote:I've lived in the Willamette Valley of western Oregon for 30 years. I've never lost a single electric or electronic component to a power surge in all those years. Could it happen? Sure. Is a surge protector worth the money for "insurance"? I don't think so.



Wait. You're saying investing less than $100 on some surge protectors (not necessarily these) that have thousands of dollars in "insurance" under warranty is "not worth the money"????????!

That has to be the silliest thing I've ever read/heard.

ericglad


quality posts: 0 Private Messages ericglad
JinnRikki wrote:Yes, it does look that way, doesn't it. Can't see giving up two outlets for six?



hehe!!!

quantamm


quality posts: 82 Private Messages quantamm
trainfriend wrote:Yes, it will provide power but it won't be grounded. Grounding is important for proper protection.



Not true. This plugs into the wall using 3 prongs, the third being the ground. The screw hole does provide grounding, but in this case, the screw is just a screw (to paraphrase Sigmund).

davidfawcett


quality posts: 0 Private Messages davidfawcett
shandy706 wrote:Wait. You're saying investing less than $100 on some surge protectors (not necessarily these) that have thousands of dollars in "insurance" under warranty is "not worth the money"????????!

That has to be the silliest thing I've ever read/heard.

When what you have to do to get the insurance paid costs more than the devices you will be paid for, it is indeed not worth the money!

A surge fries your surge protector and your equipment. Each piece of equipment will incur at least a $100 charge from a technician to diagnose and write out a report that says a surge destroyed your devices.

Then the surge protector company will write you a check for the depreciated value of 2 year old $1000 sound system, which will be about $200. If its 4 years old it is worth nothing.

So you spent $100 diagnostic fee on each of your pieces of fried equipment (maybe $300?) to get a $200 check.

Your sound system/TV better have recently costed $10,000 or more to be worth the trouble.

xyike


quality posts: 0 Private Messages xyike
KoraPlaya wrote:I bought one of these 2 weeks ago, power went out and my computer was saved from surge :D



How on earth would you possibly know that?

NightGhost


quality posts: 1903 Private Messages NightGhost
KoraPlaya wrote:I bought one of these 2 weeks ago, power went out and my computer was saved from surge :D


xyike wrote:How on earth would you possibly know that?


Hence the ":D"

pjreiter


quality posts: 1 Private Messages pjreiter
KoraPlaya wrote:I bought one of these 2 weeks ago, power went out and my computer was saved from surge :D



I'd say there's a 99% chance your computer would have been fine without it. It's very rare that a surge protector actually "saves" a computer.

ydrinkcoke


quality posts: 0 Private Messages ydrinkcoke

well i'm disappointed. i didn't notice anything on the original page of the deal about the limited use of this surge protector. i ONLY needed it for my desk (computer, lights, vape, speakers, monitor, charger) and my entertainment center (TV, DVR, XBox, and Sound System). i can't even think of where i'd use it at this point! i haven't even received the product yet and i'm regretting the purchase. -.- aye aye aye

jnevil


quality posts: 967 Private Messages jnevil

Staff

**Shipping Update**

Philips 6-Outlet Surge Protector 2-Pack has completely shipped via FEDEX SMART POST. All tracking has already been emailed out. You can also find your tracking number by following this link and use your ORDER NUMBER as the reference number.

FEDEX TRACKING

terisalyn


quality posts: 0 Private Messages terisalyn

Got mine today, and had to dig up the following link to figure outhow to get to the screw head:

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-SPP3060B-17-Electronics-Protector/product-reviews/B003GSLFMK/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1



cheeser1


quality posts: 2 Private Messages cheeser1
davidfawcett wrote:
Your sound system/TV better have recently costed $10,000 or more to be worth the trouble.



I think "the trouble" is dealing with fried equipment -- not penny-pinching to save money by not buying the surge protector.

Actuaries cut costs by evaluating risk and deciding whether it's worth the tiny sum of money, because they might spend these tiny sums of money millions of times and then it adds up.

People who need to buy one or two of these do not suffer from a large scaling problem, and it is still cost effective because in the end, they can afford it and it saves them the practical trouble of dealing with fried equipment -- even if it is, statistically speaking, not economical.


That's how commerce works.

ahorner


quality posts: 0 Private Messages ahorner

I got mine yesterday and I have to say I'm embarrassed that I can't figure out how to get to the screw. Anybody want to help me get the inner cover off? Thanks.

ahorner


quality posts: 0 Private Messages ahorner
ahorner wrote:I got mine yesterday and I have to say I'm embarrassed that I can't figure out how to get to the screw. Anybody want to help me get the inner cover off? Thanks.



Okay, I guess you can ignore the above. I just saw terisalyn's post with the link.

StVen


quality posts: 0 Private Messages StVen

Yeah not a lot of joules but still an awesome deal! I have one setup and is working great!

st.ven