radi0j0hn
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remisser wrote:Anyone know if this can zoom while filming video?
Most likely, NO. This is essentially a STILL camera. With the mic so close to the lens, you'd get all kinds of motor noises as it moves. Buy a real video camera if you want real video features.
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radi0j0hn
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sdc100 wrote: As far as I can tell, there are no free or inexpensive video editors
I got Pinnacle Studio here a while back for $79.95 with a "green screen" cloth included and a ton of effects. It's been really quite good and I use it in my work to make in-house videos.
Having said that, GET A FRIGGIN' video camera, not a still camera that happens to do videos!!!
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radi0j0hn
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ericshmerick wrote:The ZS7 is basically the Leica.
I, for one, don't see how Leica is okay with Panasonic basically releasing Pana-Leica models at a MUCH cheaper price. There's NO way I'd ever buy a real Leica when I can get 95% of a Leica in a Panasonic (the 5% is reserved for "Leica tuned firmware").
The hardware is identical and some fancy firmware will never convince me to shell out an exponentially higher price for the Leica branded camera.
Leica USA has been doing this for years. Back in the 35mm point & shoot days, they had Minoltas with a little more dolled-up cosmetics for a ton more money. No "firmware" then!
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radi0j0hn
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kliu0x52 wrote:When it comes to capturing action (so a slow shutter is not an option) in bars or clubs (so flash, with its disruptiveness, is not an option), you NEED good high-ISO performance. And for that, you NEED a low pixel density sensor. Large-sensor cameras (read: DSLR) are, by far, the best way to go here.
If, for some reason, a DSLR is not an option for you, then you will need a Fujifilm EXR camera (the EXR is a special sensor and pixel layout that makes it possible to effectively halve its pixel density when necessary; conventional sensors can't do this) (e.g., F70EXR, which can be had for a similar price refurbed, if you can find it, a F80EXR, which can be had new for sub-$200, or the F300EXR, which is sub-$240). Here are tips for shooting EXR cameras in concerts/bars/clubs.
So, to answer your question, no, this camera is not well suited for that purpose (in fact, the ZS5/6/7 has a higher pixel density than their ZS3 predecessor--not good).
Let's not forget the laws of physics here. Regardless of the sensor, a larger aperture (f/stop) is needed to let more light in at any given ISO. You'll need something like f/1.8 to get good shots unless your camera has really good 64,000 ISO! The "kit" lenses that come with most DSLR cameras spend a lot of time at f/5.6. Compact cameras are often worse. Spend $2,000 for a decent lens.
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radi0j0hn
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Someone stated, "- In general, the more the megapixels, the worse the low-light performance because each pixel takes in a lower percentage of light."
Can someone please point out a reference to this so-called fact?
BTW, I see a shocking lack of understanding regarding apertures/ISOs and their resulting shutter speeds. It takes more than magic fairy dust to make a decent exposure.
Typical office/ gym lighting shots: ISO 400 1/30th @ f/5.6 (typical compact lens when zoomed).
The solution is to get a lens with a bigger "hole." And look at the VARIABLE aperture of you lens. It will spend most of it's time at the smaller aperture. So you f/3.3-f/9 (maximum aperture) is really an f/9 that sometimes is f/3.3 when used at wide angle.
ISO 800 only gets you to 1/60th, 1600 only 1/125th and 3200 finally starts getting better at 1/250th...still not enough for stopping fast action.
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radi0j0hn
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elliotm00 wrote:--
Was posted by someone else earlier, but here is one link:
http://consumerist.com/2010/01/another-reason-to-avoid-giant-megapixel-point-and-shoot-cameras.html
As you correctly point out, the way to get good low-light performance is to use fast lenses (the old Panasonic FZ20 had a f/2.8 lens that was 2.8 thought the entire X12 zoom range!) or good high-ISO performance, available only on good SLRs.
That Panasonic with the f/2.8 goes for around $100 used on eBay! 5 MP camera.
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