I've got one of these. WOW. This is a great starter DSLR. REALLY is a safe bet, and I'm all about safety. I'm Safetyboy!

I'm looking to replace the autofocus camera that I use for online selling. I want something better this time because it can be a struggle sometimes to get the autofocus to actually focus.

Will this camera, with the lens that is on it, be good for online selling photos?

I'm in. I've had my eye on this one as a step-up from our older Kodak point-n-shoot. Talked to a guy in a camera store that was going out of business (they didn't have this one in stock) and he said this was a solid starter DSLR.

FYI: Sam's Club has a package with this camera that includes a ef75-300 lens along with the 18-55; the price for that package is $599.

It's a shame this was selected by Woot to sell earlier. Last night's Harvest Moon would have been an excellent test subject.

TEST

Flash?? I am far from knowing anything about cameras, so it might have told me in the specs...please forgive me if it did. But i have a sony camera now and if i have to use the flash (which is most of the time) when i push down the button to snap the pic, the flash flickers or goes off for about 2 seconds before actually taking the pic, thus causing a delayed pic ( not getting the moment i wanted) or thr subject to sqint their eyes because of the brightness. So all that to say, how is the flash on tgis camera? Is it a quick shoot?

I've been looking to move from point and shoot to dslr for a while now but my only concern is this camera is only 12 megapixels, i've heard you should have at least 16 MP, does anyone know if this is true?

If you order this on Amazon you can get $100 off a Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom Lens @ $129 and a 16gb SD card for free

So if you order this on Amazon with lens and 16gb SDHC card it would cost you $510 ($480+130+18-100-18).

If you order the camera here and then buy the lens and memory card on Amazon it would cost you $548 (400+130+18).

And if you have Amazon Prime you will get free two day shipping.

edit: you won't see the discount for the lens or memory card until you move to the checkout.

Just bought one as one of my soon to be retired goals is to learn photography beyond my trusty point and shoot. Since this deal doesn't include a memory card, what should I purchase for it?

Can someone comment on this offer from Buy.com? The T3 plus 20 Piece Kit, originally listed at $1700, for $499.99 with free shipping. The kit includes a 16GB memory card, 2 tripods, a camera bag... http://www.buy.com/prod/canon-eos-rebel-t3-digital-slr-3-lens-bundle-includes-18-55mm-lens-2x/224538450.html?listingid=160023390&&

Forgive the length, but I want to give some advice to both beginners and experienced photographers.

Beginners hoping to photograph what I call “gym shots” need to understand that the lens on this camera is not meant for that kind of photography. The maximum lens opening is too small to admit the amount of light needed for the camera to select a high enough shutter speed to stop action. The current solution is to buy a much more expensive lens with a larger lens opening or a much more expensive camera body with a far higher ISO.

You can try to use this camera (or others) by (a) selecting the highest ISO available, and (b) using the aperture priority mode and setting the lens for its largest lens opening.

Letting in the most amount of light possible and having the camera set to be as sensitive as possible, allows the camera to pick the highest shutter speed possible.

But “possible” does not mean adequate! You still may find yourself shooting at 1/60 of a second, which is not fast enough to capture action.

If all this means nothing to you, you need to learn about photography, perhaps via the book that I wrote for beginners on how to use the digital camera you just bought. In fact, that's the title.

Now, for the more experienced users. I recently spoke to a very professional photographer using the big Canon gear in the thousands of dollar range. She is strongly suggesting that when you do buy additional lenses, buy one's designed to cover full frame 35mm. That's because -she says- sooner or later all Canon digital SLR's will be full frame. Other lenses designed for the smaller sensor won't even fit on those cameras.

Second, she is quietly selling off her ultrafast lenses and buying newer, sharper but slower lenses! Why? Because the new cameras with extremely high ISOs no longer need a 2.8 aperture in order to achieve higher shutter speeds. This allows her to carry lighter and more compact lenses with the most recent advances in focusing and still get the same shots she was getting with the large aperture lens on an older camera body.

Think about it, as the times they are a changin'.

hanscarlet wrote:I've been looking to move from point and shoot to dslr for a while now but my only concern is this camera is only 12 megapixels, i've heard you should have at least 16 MP, does anyone know if this is true?

No. A lot depends on how big a print you make and how much you crop. I sloppy composer who cuts away 50% of a 16 MP image ends up with and 8 MP image.

That's the main advantage of the larger size, the ability to crop more and still have a lot of what's left look good.

But careful composing on a 12 mp camera (or less) and limited cropping will work about about the same as the example I used.

jmbunkin wrote:Can any of the old 35mm film zoom lenses be used on a DSLR?

What mount do you have? There are adapters for even ancient thread mount lenses, but you will soon grow tired of using them due to loss of all auto functions aside from aperture priority.

emmyb79 wrote:Flash?? I am far from knowing anything about cameras, so it might have told me in the specs...please forgive me if it did. But i have a sony camera now and if i have to use the flash (which is most of the time) when i push down the button to snap the pic, the flash flickers or goes off for about 2 seconds before actually taking the pic, thus causing a delayed pic ( not getting the moment i wanted) or thr subject to sqint their eyes because of the brightness. So all that to say, how is the flash on tgis camera? Is it a quick shoot?

Turn off the red-eye feature on your Sony for less delay. And tell us what you need to "quick shoot."

jubujoy wrote:Can someone comment on this offer from Buy.com? The T3 plus 20 Piece Kit, originally listed at $1700, for $499.99 with free shipping. The kit includes a 16GB memory card, 2 tripods, a camera bag... http://www.buy.com/prod/canon-eos-rebel-t3-digital-slr-3-lens-bundle-includes-18-55mm-lens-2x/224538450.html?listingid=160023390&&

These bundle deals are never a good deal. Take each component and price it all out separately and take note of reviews for each item.

chickchickaboom wrote:I'm looking to replace the autofocus camera that I use for online selling. I want something better this time because it can be a struggle sometimes to get the autofocus to actually focus.

Will this camera, with the lens that is on it, be good for online selling photos?

I teach an eBay Class at a local school and I can assure you this is fine for that.

Try avoid flash, as it makes everything look cheap. (And avoid having ANYTHING in the picture other than the thing you are selling, as "people don't want to know where it's been!")

Kufat wrote:I'd go with a used T2i for a few bucks more, but this is a good deal if you're dead set on a T3 for some reason.

What are the differences between the T2i and this T3 woot is offering?

cjbennett4 wrote:So you have to buy a lens separately just to use this camera? I have absolutely NO knowledge with anything other than point and shoot. However I was at a concert tonight and the people next to me were taking amazing photos while my iphone and sony point and shoot were pathetic.

Photography is both a hobby and a discipline. You need to spend some time on the basics before you drop a lot of cash.

Years from now it will not be so hard, but digital cameras are only about 12 years old, and consider the evolution of cars or even TVs that were only 12 years into their technology.

Right now there is no "magic fairy dust" camera that does everything right. Not yet.

Strip away the electronics and we are essentially still taking photos the same way Matthew Brady did during the Civil War.

This is changing and the next 10 years should be fascinating.

lackofabox wrote:My advice would be:

1. Get this deal
2. Pick up an old speedlite flash off craigslist/ebay that can do "bounce flash" for around $75
3. Save your money for a good lens (L-Series?) to fit your shooting style.

I'd be a bit careful with #2. First, this does not mean that ANY flash will work on a current DSLR.

Old Speedlights from the 70's that were made for AE-1s will not interface and do all the things that modern ones will do.

Also, old flashes that have not been used often have dried-out capacitors. They "leak" and won't hold the charge, as in the "ready light" never comes on. This can sometimes be fixed by repeatedly firing the flash at full power to "form" the capacitor, but not always.

So, unless flashes have gotten a lot better, I'd be looking into a new one that is guaranteed to provide all the functions the camera offers.

I ordered this refurbished directly from Canon about a month ago for $376.63, so for a new one seems like a good deal to me.

Loving the camera so far, upgraded from a Rebel XT. I don't aim to be a professional, but I want good quality images for family events and this fits the bill without breaking the bank.

I did add on a 50mm 1.8 II lens for portraits, a 55-250mm 4.0-5.6 IS II for telephoto pics, and a flash. I just mention this since you should be aware that as you find what you want to shoot, you are likely to spend more than just the camera.

youraverageadam wrote:The T3i shoots video, the T3 does not.

Both shoot video but T3i does 1080 and T3 only does 720.

I have the T1 and I really like it. The T3 takes up a few notches with the 1080 Video and a couple other features.

You can't go wrong with this camera or with Canon.

$409.99 with free shipping from 42nd St. Photo: http://www.42photo.com/pd-productid-105622-k-canon_eos_rebel_digital_t3_122_mp_camera_w_18_55mm_is_ii_lens.htm . So we are still saving five bucks, anyway.

shopahallick wrote:What are the differences between the T2i and this T3 woot is offering?

http://reviews.cnet.com/search-results/canon-eos-rebel-t3/4505-5_7-34499647.html#!

nanaejt wrote:What is the difference betweem T3 and a T3i ?

T3i is upscaled with 16mp resolution and 1080p on video. also a couple hundred $$$ more

shopahallick wrote:What are the differences between the T2i and this T3 woot is offering?

Lots.

http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-T3-vs-Canon_EOS_Rebel_T2i

lisalex wrote:http://reviews.cnet.com/search-results/canon-eos-rebel-t3/4505-5_7-34499647.html#!

I appreciate all the information that people are sharing. Some of it is making my head spin - but trying to process it is a good thing.

I have a Canon Rebel XSI that I bought a few years ago. One disappointment is that it does not have video.

Would the camera featured here be a step up from that camera, a lateral move, or a step down? I would like to have video - but don't want to lose quality in the process.

That said, I don't use all the features of the camera that I have. I always use auto-focus for instance.

While everything radi0j0hn says is true try not to over think it either. You'll accidentally take much better pictures with this camera than you are now with your cell phone or even a point an shoot.
As is, this camera is exceptional, you can invest in add-ons and take it to the next level if you choose as well, but either way you will be impressed if you just take the time to learn about the camera itself.
I have the T2i and a lot of extras for it and I have a blast with that camera. I'm no pro but I feel like I've learned a ton about photography without much effort. I'm even able to mount my T2i to a telescope and shoot unreal pics of moons, planets etc. The sky is literally the limit with this thing.
Your first add-on needs to be a good tripod though and maybe even get the remote control shutter button so you can be in the picture too. You will also want a shorter range lens to go on it.
Start off doing what you know how to do and work up from there, this is the perfect camera for that. Don't sweat all the details, the more you play with it the more you'll begin to understand it all.

nosty wrote:These bundle deals are never a good deal. Take each component and price it all out separately and take note of reviews for each item.

And don't forget to leave out the cheap crap you don't want when evaluating a bundle.

radi0j0hn wrote:I'd be a bit careful with #2. First, this does not mean that ANY flash will work on a current DSLR.

Old Speedlights from the 70's that were made for AE-1s will not interface and do all the things that modern ones will do.

Also, old flashes that have not been used often have dried-out capacitors. They "leak" and won't hold the charge, as in the "ready light" never comes on. This can sometimes be fixed by repeatedly firing the flash at full power to "form" the capacitor, but not always.

So, unless flashes have gotten a lot better, I'd be looking into a new one that is guaranteed to provide all the functions the camera offers.

My 420EX is over ten years old and still works like a champ, on camera or as a slave.

radi0j0hn wrote:No. A lot depends on how big a print you make and how much you crop. I sloppy composer who cuts away 50% of a 16 MP image ends up with and 8 MP image.

That's the main advantage of the larger size, the ability to crop more and still have a lot of what's left look good.

But careful composing on a 12 mp camera (or less) and limited cropping will work about about the same as the example I used.

Thank you for answering this before me! I wouldn't have been as eloquent. Too many people are obsessed with Megapixels yet they don't understand why you would even need X amount.

You definitely know your stuff!

On a side note for beginners, I'd recommend that the first new lens someone buys is a prime lens, like a "nifty" 50. It'll help with composition exercises forcing the user to think before snapping away.

And ditch the tripod if you're out and about. If it's not fun to take pics and you're tired, then it'll show in your pictures. Besides, you can't bring a tripod to a concert... and sometimes they won't even let you bring a camera like this to a concert either!

subslug wrote:While everything radi0j0hn says is true try not to over think it either. You'll accidentally take much better pictures with this camera than you are now with your cell phone or even a point an shoot.
As is, this camera is exceptional, you can invest in add-ons and take it to the next level if you choose as well, but either way you will be impressed if you just take the time to learn about the camera itself.
I have the T2i and a lot of extras for it and I have a blast with that camera. I'm no pro but I feel like I've learned a ton about photography without much effort. I'm even able to mount my T2i to a telescope and shoot unreal pics of moons, planets etc. The sky is literally the limit with this thing.
Your first add-on needs to be a good tripod though and maybe even get the remote control shutter button so you can be in the picture too. You will also want a shorter range lens to go on it.
Start off doing what you know how to do and work up from there, this is the perfect camera for that. Don't sweat all the details, the more you play with it the more you'll begin to understand it all.

This is all true. The advantage of learning the physics behind it is that you better understand what went wrong and right.

But not everyone wants to be Ansel Adams..or sometime prefers to be Andy Warhol! You will find me out with DSLR and enjoying it one day and later with a fixed focus 5 MP Kodak, shooting entirely differently!

Dozer11 wrote:Thank you for answering this before me! I wouldn't have been as eloquent. Too many people are obsessed with Megapixels yet they don't understand why you would even need X amount.

You definitely know your stuff!

On a side note for beginners, I'd recommend that the first new lens someone buys is a prime lens, like a "nifty" 50. It'll help with composition exercises forcing the user to think before snapping away.

And ditch the tripod if you're out and about. If it's not fun to take pics and you're tired, then it'll show in your pictures. Besides, you can't bring a tripod to a concert... and sometimes they won't even let you bring a camera like this to a concert either!

You also know about the magic of a 50mm f/ 1.8! A great lens and as sharp as a tack.

craigthom wrote:My 420EX is over ten years old and still works like a champ, on camera or as a slave.

Partly because you have been using it! One in a drawer for ten years may be kaput. But, more important is the 100% compatibility of flash to current model cameras.

just sold out minutes ago, ah well, should have known to jump on it sooner (3:23pm ET)

I want to buy one for my son for Christmas as his first SLR. I worry that buying this now, it will be way cheaper or there will be something better at the same price come December. Any thoughts? I would never buy a tablet or a gaming system Oct. 1st. Should I wait? I just don't know camera life-cycles.

srapier wrote:I want to buy one for my son for Christmas as his first SLR. I worry that buying this now, it will be way cheaper or there will be something better at the same price come December. Any thoughts? I would never buy a tablet or a gaming system Oct. 1st. Should I wait? I just don't know camera life-cycles.

With just about all electronics things will be cheaper in the near future and there will be better products in the near future. If you keep waiting there will always be something better and/or cheaper.

It's best just to pull the trigger when you see something you like at a price you like.

Canon doesn't release new models every year, though, and this one is already not the current version, so it probably won't get much cheaper.

How many were sold