Philips Hue Play Smart Light, 2 Pack
$97.99
$122.70
20% off
Reference Price
Condition: Factory Reconditioned
Top positive review
800 people found this helpful
Got the HUE SYNC to sync with everything! (ROKU, PS4pro, AVR...etc)
By GS on Reviewed in the United States on April 14, 2019
I have 2 sets of HUE play, it’s great. For many of you wondering how to get the HUE SYNC (pc and mac) to work with things like ROKU (Netflix), gaming consoles (PS4, Xbox, Switch)...etc etc, let me walk you through this extensive process of making it happen along with the devices you’ll need: ******5/2/2019 UPDATE****** (If you get confused, grab a piece of paper and draw it out lol) 1) HDCP2.2 HDMI Splitter with at least 2 Outputs (Look for splitter that has auto step down to 1080 from 4K for second output) If your TV is 4k, then make sure the Splitter you get is 4k and HDCP2.2 ready. It must say HDCP 2.2 and not just 4K or HDCP1.4 in the description of the splitter! As For input side, you only need the amount of devices that you have (no you shouldn’t run multiple splitters into one splitter). For me, I have all of my devices going into my AVR, so I just need 1 input with 2 outputs HDMI Splitter (1x2). If you have just a ROKU, then that’s what you need. If you have ROKU and a XBOX/PS4, then you’ll need a HDMI switch that has 2 inputs and 2 outputs (2x2). No matter how many input you need, you must have 2 outputs and the second output has the feature to convert 4K to 1080. This is not a feature you need if your TV is 1080p, but very important for the 4K people because it’ll save you a lot of headache in adjustments. 2) HDMI to USB Video Capture Device Most HDMI video capture only captures 1080p, there’s absolutely no reason for 4K just for HUE Sync if you are simply trying to pick up the color from the video capture. Connect the video capture device to the Output 2 of the HDMI splitter on one side via HDMI cable, and the USB side connect it to your PC/Mac. 3b) STOP! Before doing anything else, download the Philips Hue smartphone app, and connect the lights you want to sync with your TV to the Hue Bridge first. Update everything and make sure it’s ready BEFORE you setup with the HUE Sync software on the PC/MAC. 3c) On your PC/MAC, download “OBS Studio”, install the driver/software. I’m running Windows 10 here, so I don’t know if it will work with Chromebook or any other OS. With the OBS Studio software, what I did in the setting is to make sure the canvas screen is set to 1080 so the screen ratio of the video capture is correct. You don’t need high frame rates and you don’t need high resolution here! Lower left side of the OBS Software you’ll see the sources box, select + and select OEM Video capture. Set the PREVIEW screen to full screen, and make sure there’s no black cutoff portions. 4) HUE SYNC Install HUE Sync, there’s plenty of YouTube video telling you how to setup the HUE Sync on your computer, so just go ahead and do that and you’re good to go. What I did do is turn off music sync, intensity to subtle. NOTE: Under Settings/General-Preference/Background-lightning: Turn off background lighting. It messes with the HUE Sync with this low white light when the same section of the display is showing black. Optional: I bought a mini windows PC to run as a dedicated TV PC. Please install a CCleaner and run it automatically at start up so you won’t ever see the infamous Windows “slowing down” issues. In the HUE SYNC PC software, you can set specific buttons on the keyboard to start Syncing. I have to say, that I did end up buying 3 different mini PC and returned two of them because they simply can’t power 4K without freezing. I ended up getting a MSI cube n with a 5000N processor with 8GB ddr4 ram. I changed resolution down from 4K to 2048x1152, and refresh rate to 60Hz. It runs very smoothly all day without issue. If you do all of this correctly, you now can watch or play everything on your TV and enjoy HUE Play, regardless of the source. Remember to check your 4k setting in your Xbox/PS4 pro/ROKU to make sure it’s able to output 4K on your 4K tv. If the splitter you use or any parts you use besides the video capture is NOT HDCP2.2, you will not be able to watch 4K. If you force 4K output on your ROKU, it may work but the video capture will show a black screen. Make sure your HDMI are at least 2.0, amazon’s cable works fine, there’s no benefit with more expensive HDMI cables. I’ll take my 2 cents, thanks.
Top critical review
46 people found this helpful
Designed to be terrible, they deliver
By M on Reviewed in the United States on April 10, 2021
TLDR: competition blows them out of the water, even without looking at price, and the main reason is that the designers intentionally made them inferior to what they could and should be. Yes, they're beautiful. Once you get them up and running, they make the room look nice. That is everything good I can say about them. Everything. To get them working, you need the $60 bridge, sold separately. That's fine, whatever. I firmly believe in buying high quality things that last long and are more than the sum of their parts. I bought them separately and paid $190 and didn't sweat it, but you can get a starter pack that includes the bridge for $150, so I am going to review them as though they were actually $150 instead, because that is an available option. This price doesn't even come close to saving this horrible product. In order to use the function where they sync to your TV, you have to buy a separate $230 sync box, no starter pack discount available. And to be clear, this separate device's only function is to enable these lights, that you already bought, to do one extra thing. Clearly this is only for people who have already sunk cost into these lights and all of the associated devices who need to justify their purchase somehow and also who don't like money. Whatever, this isn't a review for that, but it does give you an idea of how the business model of the entire line of Hue products operates. It traps you and makes you get more expensive gadgetry for one off features that should exist by default. Anyway, in order to use this product you need the bridge and your phone to be connected to WiFi. You cannot control the colors, or even TURN THEM ON AND OFF without WiFi. The only way it's possible is by physically going under your desk or wherever you've elaborately set them up and unplugging them. But when you plug them back in, it doesn't save the colors you had them set to, and just defaults to a plain yellow light, the only color that you can use without being connected to WiFi. If you're interested in a plain yellow light, I would recommend you get a $10 lamp. If you actually want to use the features of this product, be prepared to have a bad time whenever your internet goes down. Or whenever someone is borrowing your phone. Or if your phone is dead. Or if literally anything else has happened to it, because it's not possible to control these lights, or again EVEN TURN THEM OFF AND ON without it. Not even using the bridge that's taking up shelf space and it's own outlet next to your router. Every time I see it I am reminded that it doesn't need to exist. There is literally no way to turn these lights off physically while retaining their color. If you'd like that luxury, you need to buy a $25 dimmer switch. And no, it doesn't work without WiFi either. Using these is annoying and tacky, and it will constantly remind you both that you really should have spent more to get basic features and simultaneously that you are a fool for spending this much on lights with so much baggage. For comparison, I have some other light bars that were $50. No hub required, no switches required. I use Bluetooth to set the colors and then never have to open the app again unless I want to change them, which I don't. I turn them on and off at my desk with the button on the switch it comes with. I could also use my phone to do this if I wanted to, but I find it more annoying to open an app than I do to press a button. I've never had to fathom unplugging them from their single outlet. If I did, though, and plugged them in somewhere else, they would light back up how I had them saved. I genuinely cannot switch to the Philips lights after experiencing this convenience. It would have been so easy for them to implement at least some of them. At LEAST saving the color you set when plugging and unplugging them. Why can't I use Bluetooth? Seriously. It would make the hub unnecessary. It would make the app optional instead of mandatory. Okay, fine. Yes, obviously, in terms of price and diminishing returns, this sucks. But you don't care about price. You also cannot imagine yourself spending one second without both your phone and a WiFi connection. Look, it's philips. It's quality, right? Take a look for yourself. I've got the ones I mentioned earlier and these sitting right next to each other for comparison. Anyway, the only person I would ever recommend this product to is someone who is unfortunate enough to already be trapped in the Hue ecosystem and has a debilitating cash allergy.
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